I do agree.
didn’t know this one.
I do agree.
didn’t know this one.
Sorry didn’t want to do marketing. That was not my purpose. Only wanted to comment what I see from other forums I follow. Thought it was on subject about using “old” lenses on new material.
I don’t own one and I can’t provide photos made by other people.
I understand and won’t do it again.
I use Nikon’s own Camera Control Pro 2 - available for both Windows and Mac
What is “IRCC” ??
Actually, I’d like to see more of your finished photographs, processed in PhotoLab.
I’ll have to check this out - is it useful?
BHPhoto is one of the larger stores that caters to the “Professional Market”. I wondered what their take on all this is, and did a search for the Best Professional Cameras, then selected four of them.
B&H - camera comparison
I ended up with a Canon EOS 5D Mark 1V vs. the Nikon D850 for what I call “affordable” cameras.
I ended up with a Canon EOS-1D Mark III vs. a Nikon D6 for cameras over $6,000.
I’m going to stop debating stuff about “which camera”, as I’m not all that interested, and I lost interest completely in mirrorless after my visit to the camera store. I’m sure they will improve.
In the real world, my only “debate” with myself right now is to buy a D850 from KEH, or stick with what I’ve got. I realize the D850 can do more than my D750. I also realize @Joanna can do more than I can do.
My summary after all this debate is mostly back to what I thought over many years, that the camera used is the least important part of “Photography”, and by far, the most important part is “The Photographer”.
If anyone wants to change my mind, which certainly isn’t frozen in stone, the best way is to post photos here that they have taken themselves, and are willing to discuss what and why they did things as they did. I’ve seen photos that Joanna has taken with her D850 that I don’t think I can match with my D750, but to me, I come “close enough”. If I was making huge studio prints, I’d already have bought the D850.
(…and to be honest here, I enjoy using my Nikon Df more than I enjoy using my D750, because of the smaller size and weight, and the “manual” controls, despite the lower dynamic range capability.)
Short response : I honestly don’t know.
Longer one : some people who are, as they say, trying to eliminate from some exibitions photographers who don’t follow their rules of honesty. Could sound great.
Big problem is that the way they judge photographers doesn’t look like to be a fair, credible and efficient way of judging.
A kind of mathematical way they don’t wan’t to give the exact mecanism. I asked them some precise details, they responded “they can’t share those informations”.
An other problem I can see : they ask photographers to give them they raw, thing I don’t like to do on the web.
Their response when I asked them how they demosaice raw :
I read provided links, but no response about what I asked.
They compare rgbv values of final photo to original raw they demosaice, and they allow a pourcentage of difference in r, g,b,v beetwen demosaiced raw (they don’t want to say how) and the final photo to make their judgment.
What about shadow recovery ? What about wrong exposure correction ? what about doing white balance in post ? And so on.
I could show them a completly black raw done with D850 at native ISO (big exposure problem due to fast shoot needed - I nearly always do manual exposure) that gave a very good shoot due to iso invariance of D850.
So what ?
All photos I provided where processed in photolab. This is the primary (and nearly alone) software I use for demosaicing.
I have my licence since v3.
I provided 4 photos for now on this forum, including 3 in this topic.
I found photolab fprime and demosaiceur a very good solution for my D850 (could explain problems I found on other demosaicers and why I don’t often use them - but could be seen as marketing).
Didn’t find a cleaner way with the ease photolab provides to process my raws (but sometime not up to final result).
There are some part I would like to see improved anyway, and I discuss this in other topics.
For the window users, there’s quit a difference between them.
That comparison is out of date. The Nikon app is now free and has more features.
Camera control pro 2 ?
Sharpness and Focus…
As I was walking down Lincoln Road yesterday afternoon, on a bright sunny day, I came upon this structure with all the sharp angles and details. This is again with my Df with 24mm (old) Nikon lens. I took photos from many different angles, with the sun, against the sun, and from both sides of the road. As I started to work on it in PL5, playing around with different tools, it started to feel more like a painting than a photograph. So, what the heck, I cropped it right up to the “corners” on all four sides, boosted the sharpness, and played with a control line to bring out the sky.
If I click on the “Compare” button, it loses all the effect that I added to it.
I didn’t want people in the photo, but I missed one person walking into the open.
I was going to shoot at f/10, but using f/8 gave me 1/1250th for shutter at ISO 400, which sounded reasonable to me.
(As usual, when I post things here, I find mistakes, as in I never corrected the date to 2022 in the copyright information. Oh well. It’s still the most “fun” photo I took yesterday. I’m now debating if I should use the HSL tool to remove the distracting “red” color at the left edge - part of me wants to leave it as-is, and another part of me says to remove the red.)
Again, you’re all free to edit it, and change it in any way you fee would work differently than my approach.
Well I already have posted 6 images, three uncropped and three cropped details just to show how sharp it really is. I haven´t really had that impression of just my own Bigma before. I also read a post here from a Nikon user that has made about the same reflections when using old DSLR-lenses on Nikons mirrorless bodies.
Interestingly enough I looked at a video today on Youtube by Duad Paton called "Mirrorless AF Issues Strike Again! Sigma 150-600 Autofocus Test on the R5.
This Sigma is a later version of mine with a little longer reach. Please go to the part where he shows the problems R5 has to focus on a yellow butterfly against a background of yellow flowers.
Here we can see a pulsing micro hunting totally unable to lock on the the butterfly efter having focused on the background. It is just things like this I think ought to be interesting for Canon photographers to study. Normally the tracking works splendid with this lens but this AF locking issue is definitely no good.
I do have seen it once before myself with a Sigma 17-50mm OS lens on a Sigma MC-11 (Canon EF to Sony E-adapter) on one of my mirrorless bodies. That adapter was absolutely crap despite a lot of reviewers had been entusiastic over it since it supported all the new focusing methods in the then latest Sony mirrorless cameras, despite it had issues making it totally useless. Later there came some examples on the net verifying I wasn´t alone.
This adapters main problem was that it made the lens micro hunt so bad that it sounded like a wasp had been trapped inside of it. It made it impossible to use it for video since the sound made every film useless. The lens never reached it´s equilibrium in focus. I have sent Duad a mail because I am really curious to know if he too has made the mistake using a Sigma MC-11 adapter. As far as I have seen I don´t have these problems with my Bigma on my A7 IV. I always use the tracking even with single shot because it works like prefocus and in my case it finds equilibrium in focus which I am happy for.
I also read another Canon issue where a user had focusing problems with a 35mm Canon RF-lens lens but he found that if he first put on a 50mm lens and then removed that and put on the 35mm lens it worked as expected. Even this seems to be a “lensproblem”.
It remember me of the problems I once had with a new Sony 24-105mm/4 G-lens on my A7 II. That lens had severe problems so I gave it back and demanded another one. I could verify a manufacturing problem with just the batch my lens was a port of after Google translating a Sony site in Japan but first I sent it to Sonys partner in Sweden who said there is nothing wrong with your camera and there is absolutely nothing to adjust in a Sony mirrorless. When I got the new lens the problems were gone.
So there is really nothing to adjust in a mirrorless camera which distinguish it from a DSLR as you also can see in the beginning of Duads video where he discusses the design differences between mirrorless bodieas and DSLR:s. Since the mirrorless use a close loop auto feed back design a mirrorless is design to automatically find equilibrium in focus - a DSLR isn´t because it has to be calibrated to do so and that goes for both the bodies an the lenses and a zoom lens might have to be calibrated on as many as five different focal lengts after the zoom range. I know that since I had my Sigma 17-70mm and the Sigma calibration docking station that I bought to the lens and this useless Sigma MC-11 adapter and the discussions Canon-folks had in one of the longest threads ever in Swedens most popular photo site…
As late as 2 years ago Canon sold over 4 miljon DSLR:s compared to slightly less than a miljon mirrorless. For Nikon the figures were 2 miljon DSLR:s against 300 000 mirrorless. I guess they both are glad to get fewer guarantee issues with focusing problems to handle because it must have costed quite a lot for them and one or two month ago Canon wrote that the developing of new high end DSLR-models had stopped.
That sounds great that the newer DSLR-lenses works fine on the Z-bodies!
Maybee it´s a different story with third party lenses like Sigma amd Tamron even with Nikon Z. See Duad Patons video above which shows some issues with a Bigma on Canon R5. When we tried my friends old Tamron DSLR-lenses for Sony on my Sony LAEA-3 adapter and my Sony A7 III none of the Tamron lenses we tried worked as they ought too with Eye Focus. But at that time all the Sigmas were really good.
Yes. I downloaded it at no cost and it works fine.
To my mind, you cropped it too tight on the top. I felt it needed room to breathe around the apex.
I notice the people but didn’t find them as distracting as the LED floodlight, which I dutifully “dismantled”
I used the Colour Wheel to slightly desaturate the red canopy.
Far better, it actually screams out for a very stunning B&W, or at least that’s Helen’s opinion
_MJM2936 | 2022-02-12.nef.dop (28,6 Ko)
I see what you mean about “breathing room”, and I almost always prefer your version more than mine, but this time I’m not so sure. I made all the corners touch the edge of the image, creating all these angles and triangles. Maybe I’ll combine both ideas, and do what I already did, but with some “room” around all four of the “points”?
I like the top and sides of your image, but not the bottom. It lost something that I think is important.
B&W is something I never even considered, but it does show the structure without the complication of color.
Breathing room added:
If I’m wearing my “photojournalist hat” I’m not supposed to remove things like that light.
If I’m wearing my “artistic hat”, I agree with you.
One thing at a time.
Did Helen just select “Black&White” or did she pick out a specific film type?
Hmmmm. To me, the stripes in the foreground serve to distract from the structure, which is properly the only subject.
Now, this I don’t understand. What I find, by leaving the stripes in, is that you end up with the corner “cut off” by the kerb behind them whereas, by placing the corner like I did, it retains the focus on the structure. My crop also makes the image square, which plays nicely with the triangular structure (IMNSHO )
But this is not a photojournalistic shot, it is a straight architectural shot. You are no longer a photojournalist and you have the liberty to move into more artistic of graphical things. Time to enjoy your photography and produce more “individual” work that stands out from the “same old, same old” journalistic stuff that might be true to principles but is “neither nowt nor sommat” (Yorkshire for nothing or something).
If you want to do reportage, stick to your Leica and photograph people in a context. But this kind of shot deserves the D750 and a bit of flair and imagination.
And get rid of that spotlight - I doubt if it was there when the structure was built and is more than likely the result of some idiot thinking that illuminating the trees was more important then the integrity of the design.
We never use the default desaturation to B&W. Helen prefers Ilford Delta 100 and my favourite is Fuji Neopan Acros 100. But having the choice of films in FilmPack is wonderful because it means that we can choose which film suits the subject better without having to go and buy and shoot a whole roll of 9 shots on 120 film.
This software is for current owners of Camera Control Pro 2. For new users, it functions as a trial version that, once installed, can be used for up to 30 days before purchase is required.
Ignore the text and download and install it. I did so a while ago now and nothing has stopped working yet.