My first converted images are muddy and soft

Good Morning Tony,

Here are the DOP’s of your images:

R0000353.DNG.dop (9.6 KB) R0000296.DNG.dop (69.8 KB) R0000335.DNG.dop (37.9 KB)

Hope you like them.

Well, here are more interpretation of two of the images. My default preset usually gives me a pretty flat starting point from where I increase things to fit whatever my intention is. My background is analog photography and I like my images to be more moderate.

I tried NOT to recover the sky in this image but to bring up the blinding light of the sky:

R0000296.DNG.dop (11.3 KB)

This one works for me too:

R0000353.DNG.dop (11.6 KB)

Thanks Geordie and platypus.

It is intereresting how few sliders have needed to be used.

Geordie recovered that sky on the deck seen with the Highlight slider I presume. I think platypus did it with the curve.

In my Qimage days I always used a modest ‘S’ curve to up the contrast. Maybe too much in retrospect but I still feel that my cameras need that bit of help.

I am not sure I’d settle with your version of 353 platypus. You seem to have introduced red into the face and to me it makes it look ‘dirty’. Everyone else has left it coffee coloured. OK I have the advantage of remembering what she actually looked like but I wonder why you seem to have reddened it platypus.

Some useful suggestions coming through now. Thank you all.


Indeed, did it in the hsl tool and did not bother to compensate the skin colours. Most of what I do includes colour rendering with the gamma 2.2 setting, the tone curve and then colour accentuation as well as local adjustments, gradients before others, and the contrast sliders for highlights, midtones and shadows.

I hardly ever use DxO Smart Lighting as I found that it can introduce halos in dark areas.

That’s interesting. I use smart lighting more often than not and have never noticed it introducing halos. I will experiment with it a bit.


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I experienced halos on edges with high contrasts, too, if I use Smart Lighting.

I could not attach the ,DNG or .TIFF file I created in DXO. I think they ended up too large. I’ll see if I can get a .jpg to attach. At least it can show the adjustments’ results. FWIW, I used PL 3 Elite
I am not sure that your file is “unsharp”, given the sensor’s APS-C size. While I can’t read the letters on the book being read, I can count the lines of text on the page (top left corner of the chair on the right, next row forward); for a 28 mm equivalent focal length I don’t think it’s unrealistic.
I think I liked the image adjustments I maed from your file by increasing a little brightness (1/2 stop) and left Smart Lighting at 25. I also went -25 on (Selective Tone) highlights, +25 on midtones, +30 on shadows and -10 on Blacks. MicroContrast +25. Noise reduction (Prime) Luminance 75, Chrominance +80.
This may sound like a lot, but only takes about 2 minutes. I think with the increase in brightness and a bit more contrast your image may gain an appearance of more sharpness. When I stack the two images (before and after) I find the later version gives an appearance of more sharpness (that is what I see, may not be what you see). I applied no “sharpening” that was not included in the adjustments listed above.
The adjustments I made to your file are typical of what I do to my own on a regular basis.
I’d be interested to know what you think if you apply what I did to your RAW file.
Also, monitor brightness can be an influence on what you see. My opinion is that most monitors are too bright when they are shipped from the factory, so if you have not done some sort of adjustment or calibration, you may benefit from that as well.
All the best. Happy New Year and good luck with DXO.

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Thanks Guy.

Lots of advice there - which I will read and study.

Is there any chance you could attach the DOP file. I have found them quite a good way of seeing the nuances made by experienced users like you.

In the meantime thanks again.


My version for the “boat in sky” image to approach the color of direct JPEG.
The new color wheel helped me a lot.

Two versions, with and without FilmPack.

R0000238.DNG.dop (20,5 Ko)

I am getting lots of DOP files and they are a great help. I am putting them each in a different folder so as on to overwrite my own original attempt.

I see that I could actually create virtual copies (as many as I need) from my original RAW and DOP and keep them on my basic folder. How do I get each of the copies to accept a different DOP from one of you folk?. That would mean that I could look at one of my RAWs and page through the various alternative DOP effects?

Very easy :smiley:

Put each pair (DNG + dop) in a different folder
Put your 4 images in a other one, the work folder
Open each proposal and copy correction settings (Ctrl+ Shift+ C)
Go in your work folder, create a virtual copy and paste settings (Ctrl+ Shift+ V)


Thanks Pascal


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Here’s another one for consideration, Tony;

And here’s the associated sidecar/.dop file. R0000238(JM).DNG.dop (21.9 KB)

This is simply the result of my standard RAW-preset (with which I have replaced the DxO-Standard preset) - plus two Graduated Filters (via Local Adjustments); to apply some texture/contrast to the mountains & sky and to the foreground pavers … via a dab of local ClearView.

And, here’s my RAW-preset - in case it’s of interest to you too … JM_RAWpreset.preset (6.8 KB)

Regards, John M

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Thanks John,

Useful and now encourages me to look at replacing the default preset. When I conver using Qimage I always apply a bit of sharpening and a slight S curve to up the contrast. I guess, as I like a bit of extra contrast I ought to look into creating a preset.

So much to learn…

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Help Help

I created a folder and used those two downloads John.

Now I see to have lost access to all the adjustments I made in my master folder.

What have I introduced that has disconnected them, please. Is it something to do with the preset. I never bothered with one until now.


Assuming you used the JM-RAWpreset.preset file to replace the default DxO-Standard preset (via Preferences settings) - then that would affect only “new” RAW files (ones not yet seen by PL3).

I named my versions of your image (and its associated sidecar file) with “(JM)” suffix - so, it should not have affected any other versions of your images.

Can you give me some more clues: What else did you do ?

John M

I created a new folder JohnM.
I put your DOP into it and a version of my RAW.
My RAW did not recognise the DOP (naturally) so I changed the name of your DOP.
Using DxO in that JohnM folder I saw my corrected image.

I then thought I’d see what your Preset did so I ‘installed’ it in the Preset Editor. It is at the bottom and has no lock mark next to it. There is a DxO standard above it and this has a lock.
I clicked Appy Preset but your Preset does not show there.

I then went back to my basic folder of 117 RAWs and my efforts on 117 DOPs and these seem to have lost all their settings. My WB, microcrontrast, smart lighting (you name it) are all back at default.

The thumbs have also got explanation marks - and I don’t think they were there yesterday. Yes, I did export a set of TIFFs a few days ago and I think it is telling me that new TIFFs are needed. But they will be if all my DOPs are different!!



I’ve worked out that what I could have done is select ‘all’ of my images that I’d worked on and applied a Preset.

Luckily my system is constantly backing my working HDD to another HDD. When it finds a file with the same name but different data it saves the old version to a hidden directory. I have copies the old DOPs from that hidden folder back to my prime working HDD and all my settings are there.

I think I will leave that Apply Preset command well alone for the moment.

Sorry to waste your time over such a silly mistake.


Hi Guys

Here is my interpretation (, cropped, jpg quality of 90, reduction of the size of image, some masks done quicly needs more work), my screen is not calibrated. Brought back some green on the mountains. Not sure where the focus has been done, faces are blurred on my screen. Vessels and partly the clothes are blown up but the rest seems ok to me.

Definitely, everyone has his own tastes… For me the jpg in Tony’s zip are too harsh, too saturated (to have same result in Dxo push the clearview ans saturation, …but i don’t like it, poor lady : the skin for me is not good in the jpg).

Les goûts et les couleurs we say in French ! That is maybe what makes us human…

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another way to work around such issues is to not automatically read and write sidecars. You can then save a sidecar when you are sure or read ssidecar again if you have messed things up…