Tony, you are not sounding rude; it is your image and you know how you want it to appear.
I would, however, suggest that, with a scene like that when you’ve got time to do it, that you try in future to change the exposure mode to manual, take a spot reading from the brightest part of the scene and then over-expose from that reading by between 1⅓ and 2 stops.
- It will avoid blown highlights
- You will be surprised just how far down into the “shadows” you can go to retrieve details.
You could also do something like this :
After all, there is no rule that says images have to be the same proportions as the original file
I have trained myself to ignore the screen on the back of the camera. I would never rely on it to determine whether a shot was over-exposed. Since working out the limitations of my camera, I work a bit like I do with large format film - if I’ve done the calculation right, the image will be right after processing. After all, with LF film I don’t have a screen on the back to check
Personally, I never move my WB from 5600°K. As you say, it’s not going to affect the resulting RAW file, but it does give me an indication of how warm or cool the lighting was when I took the shot.
Tony, I’ve been teaching photography for many years. If we didn’t have differing opinions on how an image should look, I would be extremely surprised, if not annoyed that you were willing to blindly follow what I said