One more. Last month I thought I was finished with this image. Then I started thinking “what if”…? Is it “real” - well, sort of. Joanna will probably think I didn’t go far enough, while I’m wondering if I went too far. I remember things I’m learning here, such as lighting up the buildings enough to see them, and enhancing the clouds. It wasn’t (obviously) shot in B&W, but as long as it had that little bit of color, I boosted it slightly.
Funny thing, the more I work on it, the more attached I get to it, and the more I appreciate it. I wonder if I’ll feel the same way about it tomorrow?
Instead of staring at my computer to find that the upload is done, is there an indicator in the main window of PL4 that indicates the software is still busy with an upload?
One more photo - I went looking for photos I took fairly recently, but didn’t know what to do with. Supposedly now I know more - maybe not enough, but definitely “more”.
On my iMac, as I’m posting these images, they don’t look good, but on the ASUS I’m quite happy with them. I remember working on this last one, with the fisherman, only to give up on it. By lighting the guy a little, and making the image more “gold” because of the sunset, I’m starting to feel good about it. I’ll check back in the morning - hopefully it will still look this good.
There is something I would find very useful. At the top of the image, I see the file name. Is there any way to display the full path to that file, along with the name?
Unfortunately, by so doing, you got a slight light halo around him from the auto-mask. If you are going to do this kind of thing…
Don’t alter the exposure
Alter the shadows level up but the black level down
Be very careful and subtle
In fact, I ended up removing the mask completely - on my monitor at least, there is just enough detail without it.
I also lowered and shortened the transition on the grad filter - it was too obvious where it was. But then I also very carefully erased the part of the mask that covered the guy’s head…
Oh, and I switched the NR to DeepPRIME to give the finished result of…
not really,
i downloaded your dop but it gave a internal error so i started from scratch.
i just pushed until it started to break.(just to see what’s in it.)
About focus, if its focussed that close (i can’t tell) it must be a window shot. (focus on the glass) and we have some issue’s:
100% corner should be sharp even in the dark.
(aperture is f7.1 (full frame?) so that’s not the problem here) 9m43 is f7.1 same as f16 FF near diffraction.
more nasty problem is the glare of magenta caused by underexposure.
i need nearly 2 stops to get proper brightnes in the image.
technical is flawed, underexposed. commen problem in sunset shot’s i do it all the time so i use Ev compensation or backeting to have some backupshots.
magenta is popping up every time i try to fix something. :sky you can’t vibrance it or bring blue out on the left without raising magenta on the right.
But i think this would do:
Those boats float in a total different light then the sky look like (mid image is no color correction)
my camera suffers also from magenta casting in underexposure so i think most camera’s do.
(edit final thought so keeping it darker is the best solution to hide all shadow problems.)
Maybe both, i don’t know.
i have posted here redisch glow issue’s in night shots.
which where often in the low side if the exposure. (auto AF and exposure measureing)
i have to read in that to answer your question.
The camera focuses when I press one of the buttons on the back of the camera. Probably my mistake, not paying attention. I will give up on this photo, and apply anything I learn from it to future photos. Too long ago to remember what I did.
Strange though, as I never use auto-focus, unless this was leftover from a previous photo that for some reason I did want auto-focus… confusing. No doubt it was my mistake if that’s what it says.
So, if I use the graduated filter mask, I can use another mask to REMOVE part of the first mask? I thought about that, but assumed it wasn’t possible.
No, I wasn’t shooting through glass.
You’ve proven that something was wrong, but the lens always clicks firmly in place. Something might not have been configured properly. Too late for me to remember…
I will take another photo like this with both my Df and with my Leica. I’ll be more careful, and bracket. It’s too cloudy outside today to do so, maybe tomorrow.
That is a wonderful bandaid!
I don’t understand what this means? Where is a setting for “Active corrections” and how/why do I turn it off? Could this be because one of the last things I did was to match the watermark color to the color of the sky, and maybe I forgot to turn that off?
Bottom line, I’ll forget about the fisherman photo, and maybe get a chance to re-do it, and I’ll re-shoot the 24mm ultra-wide sunset skyline photo, first with Nikon, then Leica.
I must be blind. I thought what I needed to do, is replace my “.dop” file with yours, then re-open the image, which will incorporate all your corrections. What does the “Active corrections” button do? What does this have to do with a “preset”? I’ll try these things out this evening.
Aha! Now I remember reading about that. So if I’m viewing an image, that is the total number of “active” corrections that are modifying the image from the DNG.
Something different today. Despite the cloudy weather I took my M10 to a walkabout around a hospital (nothing to show for it), and then took about 30 photos of the boats anchored in Biscayne Bay. For that I took my 90mm Summicron, wondering if I could get a sharp image of a boat in front of an out of focus Miami skyline - answer YES! I cut things down to four photos of the boats, and one new photo of a colorful sunset, this time captured with my M10.
I’m guessing there is a small chance you will approve of the first two, which I already like, the second two need “something” - not sure what, and the sunset one - I didn’t do a lot to it really. Maybe the Leica got it mostly right in the camera this time?
)
