Dng scanner files

Is PureRaw able to denoise and sharpen dng files produced from an epson v850pro scanner or should i be looking to some other software to do this.

PureRAW only works with RAW files as shown in DPR’s guide.

As for camera and lens support, visit this page.

I scan 5" x 4" negs and transparencies using an Epson V700 scanner and Epson’s own Scan 2 software, to produce TIFF files.

I assume you are using either Silverfast or Vuescan, both of which claim to produce “RAW” files.

In fact, these are not true RAW files but simply a linear DNG file or a DNG wrapper around a TiFF file.

In either case, you are not going to benefit from the demosaicing and noise reduction that PureRaw provides.

You have two options -

  1. scan to TIFF, which DxO PhotoLab will handle beautifully, including NR.
  2. use a high-res DSLR, which will provide a true RAW file

I do the first if I want to produce 50" x 40" and larger prints or the second if I want the images solely for prints up to A0 or on-screen only destinations.

Pure Raw only works on mosaiced raw Files, you need Topaz Denoise AI or ON1 NoNoise.

Personally I use Topaz on scanned files.

Actually, the truth is, digital noise on scans is very unlikely. The far greater problem is dust spots.

In 17 years of scanning 5" x 4" film, I have never needed to de-noise files, but I have spent countless hours de-spotting.

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It’s been a while since I last used my Epson V750. I used DNGs at the time to scan 24× 135 or 8× 120 frames in one go, instead of continuously wearing out the scanner’s mechanic. But VueScan was at that time rather lousy in finding the borders of the frames, so that idea was a flop and I could not open the DNGs in another app than only VueScan.

For “removing dust spots” there should be a second go with the infrared lamp, which then shows dustspots, but only on clour negatives - pointless for b/w films.

These days I use a selfmade reprostand and a digital camera to “scan” b/w negatives. Quicker and not worse than a flatbed scanner.

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I couldn’t agree more. With my Nikon D850 in 5:4 mode, I get an effective pixel resolution of 1376ppi, which is better than the 1200ppi I normally scan at for smaller prints as it gives me an enlargement of about 5.7x or 72cm x 58cm. As I mentioned previously, the only time I would revert to using the scanner would be if I wanted to print bigger than that.

Since my Nikon LS 2000 died, once in a while I do so w/ colour slides and make use of PL’s colour corrections (raw-files).

Mostly having used HighSpeed film (400 ASA :joy:) there is a lot of grain and colour noise in the copy and PL’s denoising functions are useless ( → the same w/ PureRaw ). – Instead I might try Nik DFine selectively ( → on layers …).

In most scanner tests I read in c’t the claimed resolution of flatbed scanners was nowhere near the real thing. Last year I used my old Z 7 to “scan” all mediumformat negatives, it was faster and better than the attempts 10 years ago with the Epson.

yep, interpolated & resulting in huuuge files
(still have a flatbed but not use it for film …)

I recently acquired Topaz Gigapixel AI and plan on “scanning” with my D850 and then doubling the size in that.

I have just had to increase the size of some 6Mpx files using it and was quite impressed up to 24Mpx (double resolution). However, when I first started it, the default was 6x - not pretty :crazy_face:

Thank you Joanna, that is very helpful.

Steve

For a few hints on camera scanning, check out this:

You’ll also find useful info in the guide that you can get to from the page above

I would never use a DSLR for this kind of reproduction work. A very good manual focus macro lens and an outdated mirrorless body with sufficient MP and silent shutter deliver sharp results. Shutter- and mirrorslap is an enemy of sharp results.

Which is why I use LiveView and silent shutter mode on my D850 :blush:

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Oooooh, you unemploy all that fancy mirror ballet :weary:

:grin:

I never doubted you were clever enough to do so, but seeing the title “DSLR film scanning set up!”… okay, some people still have this flippyflappymirror things, but for super precise macro work it’s like to carve wood with a plough.