Take those airy disks and see how good they really are. Aerodynamically. 
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??? I’m lost, but that’s not unusual.
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Going back to the wrong exposure of #2. That can be due a not well working diaphragm or a not well working shutter.
I my thoughts a not well working diaphragm would cause an over exposure. Seen the shuttercount the problem could be the shutter.
You didn’t test it yet?
George
Great.
I have also been using Automator and Exiftool to set or reset some metadata by draging files on an icon on my desktop.
My Mac is in repair but I will show you when it’s back soon.
Maybe we should start an “exiftool” thread to share our knowledge on the same page…
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Don’t do this!!!
Or have you forgotten just how many settings you had to go through to get it as you wanted it?
Why would you revert to an inferior (but pretty) camera?
You can leave them at zero. The difference for the majority of lenses really isn’t worth the effort as @JoJu says, the autofocus isn’t accurate enough from shot to shot to warrant all this faff.
No. Very good analogy. You can get right angle “reflex” viewers with a magnifier at the eye end, which then places the eye at a considerable distance from the ground glass screen, thus making it a lot more difficult to see exactly what is sharp, especially in the corners when using tilt to get everything in focus from front to back.
Wow! indeed. The average shutter life for a D750 is reckoned to be around the 150,000 mark. @mikemyers I hope your repairer replaced the shutter when they did the repair and just forgot to reset the shutter count.
This is the fallacy that digital photography is “free” once you’ve bought the equipment, when, actually, every time you press the shutter it counts towards anticipated shutter replacement charges. Of course, this isn’t as relevant for mirrorless cameras but I do wonder if the sensor doesn’t have a life limit in the millions.
Great. Now I can start to take you through the process of updating what CoC means in digital terms and why things have changed. See your “sharpness” thread for more details.
For the uninitiated, this refers to work on diffraction by Sir George Biddell Airy, which I shall discuss in the “sharpness” thread, which is better suited to take the way this discussion is going further.
Taking the time and effort to go into Live View to focus is ok if you’re doing only landscapes or still life objects but it’s not too practical for everyday photography where much of the subject matter is moving or where there’s only a millisecond to get the shot before it’s gone. For that you just have to bite the bullet and spend the time and effort to tune the lens.
Using a premium brand lens is not a guarantee of good results particularly if it’s a zoom lens. My old Nikon 24-70 2.8 lens (not the much newer VRII version) had a nasty habit of changing its point of critical focus as it was zoomed. The focus point at, say, 35mm shifted if the lens was zoomed out to 60mm even though the focus ring was never touched. And to make matters worse the amount of focus shift was not constant, meaning that it needed different correction factors depending upon where the zoom was put. I don’t remember the exact figures but they actually were roughly this bad: at 24mm it needed a correction factor of -3; at 40mm it needed +5; at 70mm it needed +19. Luckily the D810 allowed an adjustment of ±20.
Ugh. I’ll stick with mirrorless where you don’t have to worry about any of that nonsense.
A lot. Sometimes it’s good to go back to the beginning and adjust any settings I know need to be adjusted, but I agree with you. As far as I know, my original D750 is working just find, and every time I become aware of a difference in the #2 750, I change it to match my original. Yes, the Df is pretty, and it has real dials and knobs, mechanical settings, but… …but none of this is relevant to this discussion. I will do as you suggest, as it is all very logical, even if emotionally I feel differently.
Why not just get a better lens without those problems? My friend with a Nikon Z6 II tells me for bird photography, the mirrorless is horrible, as the viewfinder blacks out too much. My D750 never blacks out. The more he talks about his camera, the less I want one. Everything in life is a compromise, and there is no “free lunch”. Less expensive camera gear leaves more money in your wallet, but if it doesn’t perform as well as you need it to, it might just be a waste of money.
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Yes, I did, after making the changes as suggested up above. I put each D750 on a tripod with the same 50mm f/1.8 lens, and the results were the same, no obvious difference. The #2 D750 currently has my new 70-300 lens mounted on it, and it works fine - and the lens is excellent. …and light!
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Good! May I suggest to also take similiar shots with body #1?
Only if you have a mirrorless that doesn’t have those adjustments on the menu.
Because it’s a rarity that a lens for DSLR is a perfect match for a given body out of the box. You simply don’t understand the chain of added tolerances in indirect focusing systems.
Now it’s getting ridiculous @mikemyers ! 
What happens if you push the shutter button? From the moment your mirror goes up, YOU HAVE A BLACKOUT in your finder! And this gets even longer, if you use LiveView in your D750! There are a few mirrorless from Sony without any blackout.
Your friend’s Nikon Z6 II might be horrible, but first: you’re not into bird photography right? So if you want to judge stuff as an outsider, I’d suggest you check the YT channels of Mark Smith or Steve Perry. And second: There’s not a single native long lens in the currently available (! meaning, in stock and ready to buy!) line-up for the Z system and when the 400/2.8 comes out, it will cost him North of 14k$
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I did. Same exposure readings, same results. Neither camera had an issue. Both, and my Df, all seem to work pretty much the same, but the Df has a smaller 16 megapixel sensor, not 24.
You are right, and I was wrong. In normal use, the camera “flickers” when it captures an image. I set it to a very long exposure, and yes, while taking the photo, it was “black”. What I meant to say was that I’ve never noticed the blackout in normal use - it’s too fast.
My friend switched from dSLR to the Z camera, and he flat out hates the viewfinder now. I’ve never yet tried one, but my friend is an excellent photographer, and he was very disappointed. Yeah, I want to try one myself, but any thoughts I had about buying one evaporated. Like I said, my D750 is so fast about this, I stopped even noticing that the screen must have blacked out. It’s not in any way annoying, at least in normal use. If I were taking landscape photos at night, I’m sure I would be aware of the screen going black. Anyway, back to my friend, he has owned or rented most of the Nikon dSLR bodies, and this “blackout issue” never seemed to bother him before buying the Z6 II.
Interesting question - which creates a longer “blackout” - my D750 taking a regular photo, or when my eyes blink? I’ve been doing this for so long, I don’t notice either situation.
With my M10, there are no blackouts, ever. If I mount the Visoflex, which turns the RF into a dSLR, the blackouts are more obvious I guess, but not to the point of being annoying.
Correct, I’m not very involved in bird photography, but every so often I do it anyway. Years ago, I already would have bought the Z9, but nowadays I have no interest.
Then you close your eye while shooting. It was and is always visible. Even with 1/8000, the blackout time is determined by the official flash sync speed (as this is the fastest time the shutter opens completely plus the time the mirror needs to move up and down.
As both cameras have viewfinders, which is the one he hates now? I guess it’s the optical one of a DLSR as the electronical viewfinder of his Z6 II has some advantages an OVF will never have, like enlarging a part of the image to focus more precisely (in manual mode), and that you actually see how the picture will look. No forgotten white balance anymore…
I also recommend you, not to buy before you tried for yourself. It’s better to rent a camera for a weekend and see how you like the handling of it.
Sorry, this last bit is rubbish. Your visoflex takes a longer while to black out than a Z6 at the same shutter speed. How else should that be possible? The blackout of a mirrorless is necessary for the read out of the sensor, after that the EVF is back again. That readout doesn’t work faster just because it’s a DSLR - sensor read out remains the same, plus the mirror movement.
On the first point, he hates taking bird photos with his Z6, as he finds it very annoying compared to shooting with his dSLR cameras. He calls it “black-outs”, but I’ve never seen it - all I know is he is very disappointed in the Z6 because of this.
Yeah, the two points you mentioned (enlarging part of the image, and seeing the final result) are valid, but thanks to @Joanna I manually set my cameras to 5600K, and correct as needed later in PhotoLab. Zooming in to see the image larger sounds cool, and I do find this useful with my Visoflex for focusing, but only when shooting long focus lenses on my Leica, as in the Leica viewfinder distant stuff is so small. I have no problem with using the D750.
I have no intention on buying a Z camera now, for lots of reasons. As @Wolfgang pointed out, I’d probably be buying all new lenses - which I have no interest in. I’ll give the Z camera a fair look-over, but I suspect like my friend, I’ll want to stick with the dSLR. I’ll be at Pittman Photo in Miami next weekend - maybe they’ll have a Z that I can look through.
Regarding “blackouts”, I know my D750 has them, but the camera is so fast and I’m so used to the dSLR that I never notice them. I think my Nikon F was a lot slower, and the blackouts were a lot more noticeable.
Probably he means the delay in the viewfinder. An optic viewfinder is the fastest, no delay. An electronic has always a delay, though they become less.
George
Regarding comparison photos of Nikon 50 vs Voigtlander 50, here are the results.
- All photos were taken at ISO 400,
- All were shot at f/10 as @Joanna suggested.
- All were shot on a tripod.
- All were shot within a few minutes of each other
First, from my first D750, with the Nikon 50mm f/1.8 “kit” lens:
MM1_0016 | 2022-02-05.nef (31.3 MB)
Next, from my Leica M10 with the Voigtlander 50mm APO LANTHAR :
L1004216 | 2022-02-05.dng (30.5 MB)
Finally, from my Leica M10 with the LEICA 35mm SUMMILUX 
L1004215 | 2022-02-05.dng (28.7 MB)
I tried to capture enough detail so it might be obvious as to how the different lenses, and different cameras, compare. It is a clear, sunny day. The city of Miami off in the distance is a bit more hazy, but I think these photos will do for the comparisons I was interested in, how well the 50mm lenses compare with each other, and whether or not the 60 year old Summilux is good enough in today’s world.
- D750
- M10 and 50
3)M10and 35
I think the Nikon is best.
George
Lol,
Optic has no delay it has lightspeed. Beam me up scotty…
@mikemyers
The blackout by mirrorslap is the only action of no view in finder in dslr, image buffer and writing to SD doesn’t effect the view if the mirror is down( redirecting lenslightbeam to the optical viewfinder.
Rangefinders where earlier a separate kind and has a lookthrough aside the mainlens, which has framing issues because of the angle of view (perspective) differences but no blackout by taking a image.
Don’t know ,don’t own a DSLR, but suspect that in burst modes the mirror stay’s up and then you don’t have any view.
Electronic viewers have longer blackout’s because the shutter closes first(end of liveview), reset sensor, opens again for a fresh charge, exposure, closes acoordingly to the desired exposuretime and write sensordata to SD, after that it opens curtain again for viewing purposes wile rereading , video modes without storing in sd.
Liveview is pretty much the same as videorecording. 
That’s why mirrorles have longer blackouts.
More things happening.