I use BBAF (Back Button Auto Focus) in continuous mode.
What I said is when I loose target.
I use as small as possible AF zone to be as precise as possible (eye tracking if possible).
So single point is my first choice, then D9 or group if it doesnt work, and never more than D25 in worst cases.
So it happens that I loose target. When this happens, if I don’t release, retarget and press again, I can’t acquire target again generally. This for moving targets.
For not moving targets, I use central AF point (the more precise), then release BBAF to lock AF and recompose before shooting.
you mean this:
Sets the sensitivity that is applied when the
focal point is adjusted according to the movement
of the subject.
When the distance to the subject changes significantly:
[+] side: the camera immediately adjusts the focal point
The camera adjusts the focal point immediately. You can focus on multiple subjects in succession.
focus one after another.
[-side ]The camera waits for a short time before readjusting the focus.
the focal point again. This allows you to
This allows you to avoid accidentally readjusting the
when, for example, a moving subject passes by.
subject passes in front of the image.
…This item only works when the focus mode is set to [AFF] or
[AFC] is set. (+2 +1 0 -1-2)?
Ok so ihave Back button set on AF/EA lock (so push and release or repush for readjustment)
and a whitch around it.
Not sure I undestand well. The idea is not to use shutter button for AF (has to be disable). Only Back Button is used for AF; when continuously pressed it does continuous AF, and when released it locks AF as it is. And when pressed again it trys to lock again on what it is under the selected AF point.
Even if shutter button is not pressed at all.
moist, fog at the back or bokeh water?
excelent DoF placement. composition precise, pitch horizonal (focus on the top eye?) no blown whites.
nearly 100% perfect
nearly,
twig in front of the subject, and the two left have minor artefacts around it. (don’t know the name for it.) CA correction artefacts? (all of this is not in your hands but just live)
Great shot!
got the cam out the bag:
test: tracking mode pres (half) releasebutton once it locks on target in AF(AFF/AFS or AFC doesn’t mater how the switch is put) mode it stays “green”/focussed als long as you halfpress releasebutton on top. tracking does as long as it is in screen to follow.
one zone (box) mode: BBF, press once: it locks in AE/AF lock mode both pres twice, unlock press threetimes relock.
So i custom memoried c2-1 for birds
sticked a reminder behind the LCD:
moist, mainly, covered day. Not water, but water undernearth. not in frame. Very moist place.
have to better tweak web sharpening for this I think.
Or maybe denoising. Haven’t got fprime at this time. Only prime and it used to let some artifact around edges. That was the best improvment I found with fprime : no more artefacts at edges.
What I prefer more than being able to tackle higher iso whith fprime is that those artefacts are no more here.
And this shot was a little under exposed to avoid white young aigrets color to burn. So little more noise than if they were black. Euh, not under exposed, but would have exposed a little more with darker birds.
ah ok now i understand the top button is mute/disabled, that goes completly against my fingermemory .
can’t find a complete change to bbf and release(take image) on my cam or manual.
(dmc g80)
Yes, seems to be exactly that, but in continuous AF mode. So when tracking a moving target and keeping Back Button pressed, focus follows the target, and when in burst mode you can take burts with focus following the target (for birds in flight).
When everything goes right (not always )
And for that I recommend letting your camera take shoots even if focus is not acquired, because when burst begins, it does not have to stop because your AF system think focus is lost (sometime it is not at all when doing this even if AF think it is). Anyway, you should test this with your camera to see how it behaves with this.
hmm, i need to learn myself this.
test in tracking mode (it only gets green and stays green wile holding a button.)
straingly when i set up top only release, i stil need to click that to lock tracker on target.
a BBF action does give box stable place no tracking motion when i move the camera.
So workflow for BIF would be:
set to tracker AF mode.
AFC tracking mode (tracker in screen white)
click top shutterbutton to lock on moving target. tracker gets yellow and bird is locked in targetbox
locked on bird follow the bird wile holding backbutton pressed for AFC (tracker gets green) activation
hold thumb on Backbutton pressed as Bird is flown in “shooting” range and press shutter for image when you like…
oemf.
need to muscle memory that in my system.
the other AFC
setup
shutter half pres release.
AF top off
BB AF lock on.
behaviour:
BBF : turns on AFC (green dot appears right top ) keeps focussing wil i move the camera…
pres top click.
AFC keeps working even wile i lay the camera down. until i repres BB.
seems to work great after a wile.
one big bumb in the way which block my thumb. My Nose! i am left eye dominant.
feels wierd to look through the eyepiece with right eye.
now i know again why i abandonned this methode after a test.
On mine I don’t have to do this first.
I first frame the bird, put him on the selected AF point, push back button to start tracking (don’t even look at green light, no time), then when bird is in range start the burst (still keeping BBAF pushed).
If I see (feel ? everything goes fast) I loose tracking, I release BBAF button, put the bird on right AF point again and push BBAF button to acquire target again (this so fast that I often don’t stop burst when acquiring target again).
Imporatnt is that when pushing BBAF, the bird must be on choosen AF point for acquiring target (or zone if I see single point does not work for those shot).
i know,
it’s always good to try out new things. maybe i need to learn using my right eye on the eyepiece.
a experienced photographer told me once left eye dominance isn’t a handicap but a plus.
put right eye on the VF and close left you see image left open you see the world(left takes over as it is dominant).
Still feels weird, not normal.
I will take your advises in and reconfigure one custom memory as AFC BBF modes in A-modes.
Just to see if i can get comfortable with that. a bit of playing can’t hurt.
maybe the difference between classic dslr and a m43 mirrorless midrange camera.
My girlfriend is left handed and has left eye dominant.
She blames manufacturers not thinking to left handed.
But she succeed very well now using right handed cameras.
Brain has lot of ressources.
And she’s more efficient than me when it’s about doing manual focus. Very faster than me.
Have an old very good 135 mm nikon she loves. very soft, then very sharp at the same time. Beautifull transition from sharp to bokey.
In fact it’s hers now. Don’t even know how she can be so precise with actual ovf.
Most lefty’s are also quite good with there righthand.
I am almost ambidexterity. But my eye’s are leftdominant. So when i pull the ViewFinder to my face then i end up on my left eye sticking my nose to rightside
And all knobs are just there. So most knobs i cant use properly because my nose is in the way. Move the nose more infront and i hit the touch LCD replacing the AF zone……(can i turn off and on.) and i have it often closed.
So when i would look through a EVF with my right eye and i close my left then i see the electronic image. When i open the left eye also then the world i see aside the camera.
(normal anologe view.)
A guy told me that all journalist photographers learn to do that in order to have some world view directly around them (protection) wile shooting pictures.
Maybe i need go learn that to…
If possible, and given a choice, it’s good to train yourself to use your right eye behind the viewfinder, and keep the left eye open to see the world around you, as well as what’s coming into the frame. It takes some getting used to.
It’s nice when cameras allow you to change the function of the various knobs and controls.
1 Like
Stenis
(Sten-Åke Sändh (Sony, Win 11, PL 6, CO 16, PM Plus 6, XnView))
281
The developement of the new generation of cameras affect directly even the performance of old lenses as I have tried to show with the example of my own Sigma 150-500mm 5-6,3 APO OS lens.
With a mirrorless with a sensor of higher pixel count (33 instead of 24) and a deadly accurate autofocus that now is able in lock in really low light conditions we get a completely now situation. We get a system that gives a new life to an old not so fantastic lens from the DSLR-days.
I now get better, definitely sharper images with clearly more detail than before because of a sensor with substantially more pixels and an AF not prone to focusing problems like I had with this lens on quite a few of my DSLR:s. My old lens also manages to lock with eye AF down to F22 on a full focal length of 500mm, which has never happened before. That definitely makes it a lot more useful than before.
… BUT that is just one side of the coin - the hardware side - that most people likes to talk about. The other side is the software achievements equally important as it really makes it possible fend off the limitatons the noise earlier created at ISO 12 800 by using this fantastic Deep Prime and other tools present in Photolab that helps us all to increase the overall technical image quality in our images.
The hardware and software lives in symbiosis and we have to be able to discuss how to use them as efficient as possible without limitations, since it’s the interplay between thr hardware and software that really sets the limits - and even in what once was seen as hardware there is an ever increasing part of ever smarter software algoritms. They are all equally important for the results.
)
)
…(can i turn off and on.) and i have it often closed.