you can, just go ahead and try
Here are the steps with an easy to convert image.
Prerequisite: Custom WB the camera through an unexposed part of the film if available
Negative conversion (NC) as illustrated by the screenshots (in the ZIP file)
- Starting point: No Correction preset, use lens distortion/vignetting correction if needed
- NC01: the image taken from the negative
- NC02: image processed with the “negative” preset (note: I made it a partial preset)
- NC03: image white balanced using the brightest part of the centre cloud
- NC04: image brightened by shifting the RGB curve (check tone curve)
- NC05R: image adjusted by shifting the R curve (check tone curve)
- NC05G: image adjusted by shifting the G curve (check tone curve)
If you want or need further tweaking, you can use the HSB sliders for colour
or export to application (the NIKs) as 16 bit TIFF.
That’s it for an easy to convert image. This one was taken in summer in Australia, 1988 ct.
It gets more complicated with images taken in low light and/or when you don’t custom WB your camera.
I experimented with halogen and LED lights. Don’t remember what I used on this image though.
- Forget JPG. Expose to the right or bright areas will be full of noise.
- Forget exposure, contrast etc. sliders, the’ll make you crazy. Use tone curves sliders only.
NC.zip (15.0 MB)