Auto adjust ETTR exposure

It doesn’t “work”; it just shows him what he wants to look at, no more, no less.

(I wondered about doing that also, but didn’t realize how easily I could un-do my exposure compensation setting… I wonder about far too many things, but I only concentrate on what you suggest, as that’s something I always need to learn.)

Ok, got it :slight_smile: → ‘discard’ the camera’s exposure compensation setting, readout from metadata …

Being not very familiar with ETTR +1,7 (doing people and concerts, but seldom landscape) I don’t know really, if to simply revert the +1,7 in-camera-correction is suffcient.


Tried now with Mike’s pic, but also had to use SmartLighting spot weighted

and Selective Tone / Shadows

Screen Shot 10-23-21 at 04.19 PM

To revert exposure correction didn’t work on it’s own → such a drop down option is questionable.

Yup. I always create a new VC before I do anything at all to an image. That way, I can go back or compare a VC with it at any time. If I want to try something out, without being sure of it, I just create another VC, try it out and, if it works, delete the previous VC and carry on from the new one.

That way I can select which previous version I want to compare the current one to when I press the Compare button.

ETTR was a technique originally developed for early sensors and is not even worth considering using on modern sensors. I read an article some some back which completely debunked ETTR for modern sensors.

I have never bothered with ETTR because my photography is generally wildlife and birds and you very rarely get the time to do ETTR. Besides, the noise reductions in PL now are so good that it gives way better results than what ETTR would give. Another thing that Joanna mentioned is that the histogram is for the jpg and not the raw so if you rely on the histogram to implement ETTR then you will not get the best results. Concentrate on your composition, the result you are after and the exposure you are after. ETTR gives you so little it is not worth even considering.

This is my opinion and I am sure I will take some flack for this but I hear of so many people trying to implement ETTR and miss the shot they are after in the process.

The Nikon has a “Highlight-weighted” exposure mode that I find very useful for shooting concerts

Now that is interesting. I tend to use the expression when trying to explain to “students” about placing exposure rather than get into too much complexity with explaining how the Zone System works when adapted to digital sensors.

Indeed. If you have to shoot, chimp, shoot, chimp, etc., it all takes time. On the other hand, getting to know your camera and its limitations will win you shots hands down.

see Auto adjust ETTR exposure - #22 by Wolfgang – addendum

There’s no figure you can use to correct the over exposed image. In the image from @mikemyers there is no overexposure. The +1.7 EVC is due to the way they determine the right exposure.

I didn’t know that. Must check that out.

George

Sure, it was about how to revert …


Highlight-weighted:
When I checked my cam, I realized this possible setting and had to look up in the manual
Auto adjust ETTR exposure - #14 by Wolfgang
So, I quickly took some shots – not precise, but to get an idea. And it looks like the measured Spot metering value is corrected by about 1 EV. I have to check more. :slight_smile:
Screen Shot 10-23-21 at 05.43 PM
Center weighted

Screen Shot 10-23-21 at 05.47 PM
Spot metering Highlight-weighted

I’ve never compared but that’s interesting to know.

I’m not sure, but I think highlight weighted is not a spot metering. I think you must use matix metering to compare with.

George

Well, in the D750’s Custom menu there is “b4 Matrix metering” (w/ or w/o Face detection) and “b5 Center-weighted area” (from 8mm ‘circle’ to Average metering).
– With top metering button plus custom dial (backside) one can flick between Matrix metering, Center weighted, Spot and Spot Highlight-weighted.

I just took 2 quick shots right into a 40W bulb to get an idea, what’s about this nebulous explanation from the manual, resulting in 1EV difference in this case, which of course is not representative.
– That has to be proven in a realistic enviroment. While I don’t measure changing spotlights on stage, I try to get them in the composition when I can’t or won’t exclude them.

Just out of interest, I took this in 2019, 10,1000 ISO, 1/400 sec @ f/5.6, highlight-weighted, aperture priority, no compensation, minimum work in PL4

I love this mode - it just works!

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For those who are interested Using the Highlight-Weighted Metering Mode | Nikon

George

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yes, saw it and have been wondering about

Highlight-weighted metering’s first priority is to reduce washout, which may make pictures seem overexposed. Use exposure compensation to achieve the desired result.

as when I have to use additional exp comp … I just skipped the article, so maybe I misunderstood :slight_smile:

Well, you learn something new every day. @mikemyers, you might like to try this on your cityscapes, both day and night.

Hello everyone.
What I meant was what Darktable already provides as “compensate camera exposure”: automatically remove the exposure compensation with one click.

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This discussion is very intriguing my new Pentax K-3 Mk III had highlight metering but I’ve never attempted to utilize it. I can see the value of using it in landscapes when shooting into the sun with the sun included in the image How would you correct for the underexposure of the rest of the scene? Lift the shadows?

I do a lot of cloudscapes shooting into the sun.

Larry

Take a look at this discussion with @mikemyers. It is one of a couple in which we discuss just that subject and show how to adjust things.

There’s also this very long thread amongst which you might find sections of the thread which discuss retrieving shadow detail in contre-jour shots, like starting from this post

If you want to discuss your photos, why not start a new thread with an example and we can look at the kind of images you want to perfect and show you how to go about it best in PL?

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I am with you in classic ETTR most times it’s not really needed and bring more work to the image in post.
I use the EVC wheel for exposing the subject right. (yes you could choose aim on subject half press reframe but then you have right AE but also fixed Focuspoint and sometimes i like to lay my focus some where else.)
Knowing you have +2EV headroom is more important then continuance using it. :slight_smile:

Not by me, i know what you try to say, try walking with family and manual set every exposure of every image you take… :thinking: i rather use exposure bracketing and take 3 shots every time. or just adjust EVC for the scene.

Hmm, is this the same as Idyn of panasonic? (the exposure part of Idyn not the contrast part).

Peter, that depends on the camera – with my D750 I can ‘decouple’ it
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