See what i have to cope with? you can’t set tripod open shutter at f9 and wait 10seconds your death eh deaf and blind. and it’s all around you, maybe you get hit by a 1 meter stick of a rocket tumbling down…
So i shoot as fast as i can and hide!!!
For professional fireworks f/9 is overexposing by almost 3 stops - what was the ISO set to.
I’m guessing these were firecrackers, not fireworks? If so, maybe there was no color to begin with, nor were there any long streaks in the sky to capture.
If it was firecrackers, and if your camera has a flash, that might have helped by lighting up the foreground.
From the last thing you wrote, you are in far too much danger to do this - if you got hit by something, you’d likely have a serious burn. What you were shooting is nothing like shooting holiday fireworks, which go way up in the sky, and nobody is allowed to be close enough to be injured. Other than suggesting you use a flash, I can’t help at all.
This is shot in my backyard and everything you withnest is lit on the open street between parked cars and walking people… “legal” consumer fireworks, i suppose it’s legal somewere in Europe…
F9 for m43 is f16 in FF. And at base iso 200 i think it’s not overexposed.
The fireworks arn’t the official piro kind which is remote ignited by a pyro-technision but they can blow up your car.
I can mount my 35mm f/2 lens set to f/16 on my reduced frame Leica M8.
Then I can mount the same lens on my full frame Leica M10, again at f/16.
I could mount the same lens on Joanna’s LF camera, and adjust it to focus, at f/16.
Or, I could buy one of those old 16mm pocket cameras, and mount the same lens, at f/16.
Regardless of what I do, it will always be f/16 unless I change that setting on the lens.
Other things change, dramatically, but not the aperture. I know that you know that, which puzzles me as to what you were trying to say?
Peter, I do volunteer work at Aravind Eye Hospital, in India. They have many festivals where firecrackers are set off - they call them “crackers”. Kids go around setting them off with no supervision. And then I sometimes see the kids the next day at the hospital with very serious eye injuries. From what you wrote, and looking at your photos, to me, it looks dangerous.
I take photos for the hospital, and one day when I went there after the Divali Festival, a lady got me to follow her to a room where her son was sitting on one of the beds, with one of his eyes looking to me like it was burnt out. She insisted I take a photo of him (I have no idea why). I felt sick to my stomach, but did as she asked. I then went about my business, and after lunch brought a package of chocolates for the staff to give to the boy… Fast forward to my next visit, and I was walking around the hospital lobby with my friend Sumathi, and a lady came up to us. Turns out she was the mother again, and I got to see her son, and take a new photo. The eye looked strange, but if I understood correctly, he could see again. I still “shudder” when I think about this. So many kids in India get hurt from crackers every year, and many of those “crackers” look like the “M80” things people used to set off when I was younger, that now are illegal to sell.
The photos you posted made me think you were in your backyard very close to these crackers and stuff that were going off. Your photos make it look like the stuff was all around you. Anyway, that’s why I wrote “you are in far too much danger to do this”.
Sorry for going off on a tangent like this, but I know from experience that it’s easy to get so involved in getting a photo, that only later did I realize how I could have been hurt. Enough. I’d rather talk about lens apertures.
I can’t replicate the calculation of f-numbers. But it’s about DOF compare and difraction startingpoint. FF starts diffraction around f16-f22 on a m43 around f8-f9
Which has the same DoF compare. So that is what i try to say. The physic hole is indeed not changed. That’s the technical mumbojumbo of equivilence i linked above.
I know .
It is, every year people die or get injured are losing hands , eye’s, feet.
This year a 12 year old boy died by a smash hammer, a contruction of explosive nitraat and a dropping hammer… 200 injured this year…
Every one loves fire work… i always where protective glasses and i never ignite firework larger then a cracker. Even my kids don’t. I spent my money on food not fumes.
My back yard is relative safe and i keep my gard and goggles.
An Aperture of f/8 (focal length divided by 8) is independent of sensor size.
For a m43 sensor, this aperture creates an image with a DOF that corresponds to f/16.
The density of light (photons per area) hitting the sensor is the same nevertheless. Using a smaller sensor is just like cropping an image - and cropping doesn’t make an image darker!
As i said, even out DoF and there is giving 4times more light/mm2.
So the FF vs M43 is 2 stops more light for the m43 sensor at the same DoF.(which is 2 stops wider aperture)
Which is great because base iso of 200 is indicating more prone to noise then base 65 iso of FF. (unless you hit the max opening of aperture on your lens wile the ff can go wider there is reasonable comparison if you don’t factor in the DR and resolution differences of sensors.
My mistake was about light intensity per square mm.
The wider the latent image you project on the sensor the lower the light intensity of the same source.
(compare the adjustable floodlight as example. Narow beam and you have a brighter spot then the wide beam. Wile it is the same amount of light photons.) (maybe better 1m away from the wall gives a brighter spot then 10m from the wall.(extendertubes)
Edit before you think wtf, every system has more or les the same Comparable area ratio or front lens vs exit lens so that even out the light intensity per mm2 vs focus plane focal distance (i think) as i said it’s complicated science…
If we only could have iso65 as base…
(it’s confusing stuff…)
Peace again… on other forums this kind of posting got locked threads.
Edit, I always try to think “2x” for DoF and focallenght as calculation transfer from ff to m43 to get more or less the same image. What ever the iso or shuttertime is, that is what it is on a system.
Last edit, this is why remembered the 4x calculation of 2 stop aperture shift so when you set crop vs FF for same FOV and DoF you get 4 times more light which evens the noise difference abit. That’s all that matters for me the rest is hardboiled in the hardware like DR and such. Don’t like that hardboiled specs?? Buy an other tool.
CitaatSince the f number (in this case f/1.4) represents the ratio between the focal length of the lens and the physical diameter of the entrance pupil, it is easy to calculate the size of the aperture diameter on the Nikkor 50mm f/1.4G. We simply take the focal length (50mm) and divide it by its maximum aperture of f/1.4. The resulting number is roughly 35.7mm, which is the physical size of the aperture diameter, or the entrance pupil. Now if we look at the Olympus 25mm f/1.4 lens and apply the same math, the aperture diameter turns out to be only 17.8mm, exactly twice less! So despite the fact that the two lenses have the same f-number and cover similar fields of view, their aperture sizes are drastically different – one transmits four times more light than the other.
Ok back to Fireworks,
i made a preset to darken the night and enhance the colors. vuurwerk preset.preset (8,2 KB)
after this i use exposure compensation to finalize the brightinglevel.
tonecurve preset vuurwerk v2
(every burst i all select and apply then the same adjustments on in order to export them as Tiff to a merging app. (kind of stacking) (short shuttertime do close by explosions too much motionblur otherwise.(was my thought)
it’s a workaround idea. see if its working
it’s combining tifs until i get a reasonable realistic image. And return to pl with the combined tiff to finalize.
colorsaturation. and such.
Not ideal but my first tryouts seems to work:
(35mm (70mm FF) is just too narrow to get the hole explosion in.
first conclusion combining works a bit not perfect but workaround.
So select a few in a burst which complement each other and export to stack/combining.
around 2-3 per combine works best. more is starts to be “duplicating” flares too much.
shot 1 ,2,3,4 are shots made in burst mode. first i individuality apply a group of adjustments on those then i export them as group to in my case Silkypix as 16bit tiff. and then i choose in there 2 images which i can blend in creating a more filled image. Like this video i captured
it’s creative enhancement
and i blacken the corners if i see some structure:
Thanks for posting - I doubt I could even carry that to and from the bus(darkroom). 8x10 like Ansel used is too much for me. 4x5 I’ve done. I think I best stick with 35mm and digital.
like buying a profesional BBQ and a 5years of meatsupply and a full automated espressomachine with milkfoamer and 1 year coffeebeans?
(sorry just been looking again, G.A.S. attack, taking pills…)
If I was younger, or wealthier, I’d probably have already bought the Z9, and the M11 too. I’m not, and for “my photography” I think I’m better off with the D750 and my M10 - and M8.2 as well. Leica and Nikon cameras are each quite good for different styles of photography. I doubt the new Nikon or the new Leica would make much of a difference, other than larger files that I could no longer upload here. I like the M11, but I don’t like it 8000, 9000, or 10,000 dollars worth. Not to mention with the Nikon, then I need new lenses. Maybe there’s a reason I drive a 2012 Mazda Miata MX-5 and not something bigger, badder, and faster.
Thanks to you, I accept that I can’t replace my M10 with my M8.2, and while I can easily replace my M10 with an M11, and feel good about it too, I don’t see/feel/realize any overwhelming need/want/desire to do so. I’ve enjoyed rangefinder cameras since I replaced my box camera with a 1936 Contax II. There are a lot of things it’s not “best” for, but there are a lot of reasons why "SLR, DSLR, or Mirrorless cameras are also not the best for.
Drooling - yeah, I guess in a way I’m doing just that, for the M11 and a Mirrorless, but there’s a huge leap from “drooling” to “searching to buy” over one or the other.
Leica cameras used to be “real”, but then Leica discovered they would be better off financially by ALSO offering overpaid fancy camera models. My old M3 and M2 were as “real” as it gets, with no frills. I bought my M8.2 thinking I was buying an old Leica, but with digital innards replacing the film system. The M10 followed that tradition - no fancy anything, no video, very few controls. The M10 fits me, as well as I fit it. There’s a Leica emblem on the front of most of the M series cameras - the first thing I did was to tape over it with black plastic electrical tape.
So i am finished with take one.
around 50%-60% trashed and some 20% after first culling.
From this list i edited and exported which got an other number trashed after first look.
i made a video clip from 2021-2022 fireworks capture
stills molded in to a motion so you can watch and relax. (4k resolution) about 5 minutes.
Some are combined and some are original. (they can be discovered due that they are next to each other)
(i needed this to see if combining was enhancement or not) (culling)
i made the sky as dark as posible to get no distractions from the light of firework. (smoke reflection was part of the firework.)
Most (almost all) are real colors but boosted.
only two i made as “stars and twinkle andromada clouds” red giant star. and “pulsars and red dwarfs”
i always where protective glasses and i never ignite firework larger then a cracker. Even my kids don’t. I spent my money on food not fumes.
on other forums this kind of posting got locked threads.
